mrpham's summer build

by **sailaholic** » Thu May 10, 2012 7:28 am

Why not keep the clutch switch for flat shift?

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by **mrpham** » Thu May 10, 2012 10:18 am

sailaholic wrote:Why not keep the clutch switch for flat shift?

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hmmmmn that's a good idea, haven't really thought about it but would be nice to setup.

by **sailaholic** » Thu May 10, 2012 12:57 pm

thought I better mention it now rather then later.

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by **mrpham** » Sat May 12, 2012 9:40 am

sailaholic wrote::lol: thought I better mention it now rather then later.

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Free anytime to chat about syncing ITBs?

by **mrpham** » Sat May 12, 2012 9:41 am

ITB Clean & Paint - http://omgpham.com/itb-clean-paint

My ITBs were pretty dirty so I had them sent out to Chilton Engineering for some sand-blasting, got it all back today and they came out great! It was also recommended that I give the ITBs a coat of paint to keep them clean.

I picked up some VHT Primer Coat and Quick Coat in the aluminium finish, was considering painting them black but decided against it. Some clean silver aluminium will look spiffy in between the black adapter and velocity stacks.

Fresh from the sand blaster, so clean. Had to mask the ITBs again to get it ready for paint. VHT Primer Coat and Quick Coat in aluminium finish.

I was told a long time ago to always have spray cans dipped in hot water while you paint, apparently it gives a better spray or something. Don't know if it's true but it kind of makes sense.

Hanging out on the clothes line getting the primer coat sprayed on.

Primer coat all done!

Top aluminium coat lightly sprayed on, did a few dusting coats before I did a wet coat.

Top coats all done and left to dry.

All done!

Going to give it a week to completely dry before I start putting it all back together.

by **sailaholic** » Sat May 12, 2012 11:35 am

Sure, I haven't done mine yet. But I think I've figured out how they adjust and have a set of four vacuum gauges to get it sorted. I'm getting sent away for work a lot till the end of the month though.

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by **sailaholic** » Sat May 12, 2012 11:38 am

Looks awesome, I was tempted but didn't want to stuff them getting them apart. I'm also super time poor at the moment. :sad:

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by **mrpham** » Sun May 13, 2012 4:04 pm

ITBs muhahahaha - http://omgpham.com/itbs-muhahaha

So I'm still waiting for the paint to dry on the ITBs, going to be a long 7- days... But I couldn't wait so I did a dummy fit of the trumpets (velocity stacks) on the ITBs.

I'm so WET with excitement!

by **sailaholic** » Sun May 13, 2012 7:01 pm

The trumpets look pretty long.... care to mention a size? How do you go for clearence on the master cylinder? Also are you planning on running an air box or just socks?

While um thinking about it I should probably mention my manifold is a bit unique ( I think ) in that all the runners actually connect to a central vacume tube which accepts idle air and feeds the booster. So I don't think my will be as effect by imbalance between the throttle bodies

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by **mrpham** » Sun May 13, 2012 7:28 pm

sailaholic wrote:The trumpets look pretty long.... care to mention a size? How do you go for clearence on the master cylinder? Also are you planning on running an air box or just socks?

While um thinking about it I should probably mention my manifold is a bit unique ( I think ) in that all the runners actually connect to a central vacume tube which accepts idle air and feeds the booster. So I don't think my will be as effect by imbalance between the throttle bodies

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The trumpets are 75mm long, from the face of the trumpets to the base of the manifold measures 260mm. I'm assuming from the manifold to the valve faces is at least another 100mm, so brings the total length at 360mm. Clearance to master cylinder is fine and will be running UNI Filters with no air box.

My runners will all run into a distribution block to feed the brake booster and MAP sensor.

I'll be buying this device for syncronisation, it's similar to what Toyota uses in the service manual:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330569913149

I was thinking about the vacuum gauge style for synchronisation but wasn't sure how it would work in our setups since all runners are "linked". Would each gauge still show a reading independant of each other? I know the motorcycle guys use it to sync their ITBs but don't think motorcycles throttle bodies "link" to each other for a shared vacuum.

Have you had a chance to try yours yet?

by **sailaholic** » Sun May 13, 2012 8:44 pm

Nah car is in bits still. Haven't been home much do get it going.

Mine is about 142 from head to front face of tb. Still working on what size trumpets I'll use as I'm going to use an air box and that uses up a fair bit of space.

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by **mrpham** » Sun May 13, 2012 9:05 pm

sailaholic wrote:Nah car is in bits still. Haven't been home much do get it going.

Mine is about 142 from head to front face of tb. Still working on what size trumpets I'll use as I'm going to use an air box and that uses up a fair bit of space.

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Man let me know when you're back from work, keen to catch up.

by **plohl** » Mon May 14, 2012 11:10 am

You two should just delete the booster. Do it!

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by **mrpham** » Mon May 14, 2012 12:18 pm

plohl wrote:You two should just delete the booster. Do it!

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lol as if!

by **mrpham** » Mon May 14, 2012 12:26 pm

Custom Wiring Harness Part 2 - http://omgpham.com/custom-wiring-harness-part-2

Over the last couple of days I finished off the main body harness, it's basically just wiring for the exterior lights and all in-cabin stuff plus fuses. It started out as a big mess but I think I did a pretty decent job in cleaning it up, also was able to relocate the engine bay fuse box to under the dash.

Another thing I did was remove all the stupid tape Mazda used on wire splits and replaced it with heat-shrink, I HATE TAPE!

I used zip ties instead of tape to bundle the wiring harness, all engine bay wiring will have convoluted tubing to protect it from stuff.

Removing the stupid tape and replacing it with heat-shrink.

Main body harness completed, now to start on the power and engine harness...